Catch a glimpse of Bengal's jewellery culture

When talking of Indian jewellery culture, it has to start and end at Bengali designs. They are not just popular but also fill the whole of jewellery catalogue with spectacular creations. Bejewelling from head to toe, it has something unique to offer in each category. Within each category too, there are a number of variants to choose from. Let’s lose ourselves in the beautiful maze of Bengal and unearth some rare yet ravishing jewels.

To begin with, Tikli. Made of gold, this special jewel is placed on the centre parting of the bride’s hairdo and is embellished with precious stones. In olden times, when India was under British rule, Bengali would often get inspired by the English culture and as a result, Tairaa was borrowed from them and it is a combination of mangtikka and tiara. Just how Christian brides tie their veil to the tiara, Bong brides too started tying their saree veil with it. Thanks to Aishwarya Rai’s bridal look in Choker Bali, the Projapati tairaa design is now popular amongst young brides.

Jewellery is not just an adornment for a Bengali woman. For them, it is also their pride and this is why, they are known to flaunt it, expecially the nath. Whether it is a festival or a wedding, they will show up in a big nose ring as they believe that the bigger the nath, the higher is the status of a woman. Can’t say about the status part but they definitely look prettier in them.   

Even when it comes to earrings, they are on top of their game. They have their own stylish jhumko that are embellished with floral designs yet unique to their culture. Kaan bala is another pair of earrings that is invariably present in every Bong woman’s trinket box. Set in gold, it is designed in a way that it takes the shape of the ear.

Moving on to necklace. Paati Haar is a necklace commonly worn by affluent Bengali ladies. During the times of zamindars, married women would wear heavy gold jewellery not just for fashion but also to show off their status. But back then, gold jewellery was mainly crafted with gold wires and were very complication in terms of design. Owing to that, it was very difficult to wear them all the time. At times, it used to hurt the skin around the neck. So, jewellery designers flattened and broadened the neckpiece so that gold joints do not hurt the wearer and thus, came into being the Paati Haar.  

Adorning neckline is not limited to Paati Haar in Bengal. There is much more than you can think of and Chik is definitely beyond one’s imagination. This beautiful choker usually sits pretty on the neck of the bride and is not supposed to fall below upto the collar bone. Mostly crafted in gold, at times Chik also comes studded with diamonds or pearls for a more lavish look. Pancha or Sapta Lahiri is another neckpiece that adorns married as well as unmarried women here. As the name suggests, it includes five to seven strands that have stones studded in them.  

In chains, they have a thing for Muff Chains that comes in diverse length and design varieties. Mostly cast in gold, this jewel is also given to Bengali grooms as a part of their wedding gifts. Flower motif chains, termed as Bokul Mala in Bengali is inspired by Bokul flower that is found in this region, is a dailywear jewel of a married Bengali women.

Their love for necklace also goes beyond gold. The Bengali Muslim women prefer to wear silver more than gold, although they have no inhibitions for the latter. Hunsuli is a popular sliver necklace that Bengali Muslim women strut in these days. That’s not all. They have a special inclination towards anklets and toe rings too. Available in various designs and styles, married women prefer wearing simple silver payels called Nupur for their regular use.

Here's the most unique jewel piece from Bengal. Tabiz is worn by Hindus as well as Muslims in Bengal on their upper arm. While this jewellery is religion-centric, gold and silver based baju, tagaa and tabiz with a hollowed centre are traditionally worn by both, men and women in Bengal.

But if you dig deeper in to their bangles’ variety, you will be compelled to say that Bengali women are obsessed about embellishing their wrists. Corresponding to their Kaanbala, they have a bala design for their wrists. Even the traditional conch-shelled Shanka Pola now come with a sparkle of gold and is called Shona Bandhano Sannkha-Pola. Stunning gold designs on the conch shelled and red lac based bangles are a common sight in Bengali weddings these days.

Other than this, a married Bengali woman also wears iron bangles - Bandhano Loha, in her left hand. Encapsulating the iron bangles in gold, now-a-days these bangles are also known as Shona Bandhano Loha or Noa in Bengali. Another show stealer of a Bengali wedding is Kankan that has designer end points. This thick gold or silver bangles are worn by Bengali married women, as they are considered to be auspicious. 

Beloyari Churi that comes with a special cut design called Beloyari, Mantasha that is designed by embedding pearls in gold, Bauti that is actually half-cut instead of a full bangle and Gaala Bhora Bala that is crafted by filling wax in gold, are other bangles varieties that reflect the rich jewellery culture of Bengal.   

Use of sculpture and paintings is vividly evident in almost all facets of a Bengali culture including jewellery. Gold bracelets with sculptures or Meenakari paintings are called ‘Chur’ among Bengalis and can be worn by both, unmarried girls and married women. They stand out for the intricate designs carved on them. Although they come in pairs, you can even buy a single piece. 

The look of a Bengali bride cannot be rounded off without Ratanchur that has its origin in the Mughal era and is meant to adorn the hands. In this traditional jewellery, the five finger rings are attached to the wrist through an individual chain while the designs mainly boast of sun, moon and lotus motifs. 

Bengal is a treasure trove of magnificient jewellery. But the article on jewellery heritage of this state cannot be complete without the mention of Calcatti designs that are used in bangles, necklaces, rings, etc. Truly! The more you explore, the more you discover. There’s always something new in store. There is always something exquisite in sight. That’s Bengal for you. Even as I wrap up this article, I feel the quest has just begun…

 

Author: Deepa Mishra

Disclaimer: All images used in the blog have been sourced from Google purely for the purpose of informative reference. The models, celebrities or products showcased in these pictures are not to promote any brand in any manner.