The treasure trove of Andhra Pradesh

You cannot sum up India’s jewellery heritage without paying a special tribute to Andhra Pradesh.  Home to diamond mining, pearl harvesting and jewellery traditions, the state boasts of a glorious history with a virtual monopoly in the global jewellery industry till 1826 (until founding of the diamond mines in Rhodesia, Africa). What’s more! Eight of the 10 most valuable jewellery pieces on Earth today were found from the mines located here. With the ancient Golconda mine in its crown, the state is also the mother of the several legendary gems such as the Kohinoor and Hope Diamond. A grand salute! Another feather in its cap is Karimnagar’s silver filigree. But that does not mean, it lags behind in the gold jewellery game.

Mainly comprising of Vaddaanam, Aravanke, Kashulahaaram, Buttalu and various other customary gold jewellery designs, it is a continuously evolving ancient tradition. However, brides from different communities have their own unique bridal jewellery, of which the Reddy, the Nizam and the Arya Vysya brides enjoy special attention of the jewellers here. Let’s now take a closer look at the bridal ensemble of each of community’s bride. 

To begin with, the Reddy bride. They wear heavy gold ornaments, studded with stones like rubies, diamonds and sapphires among others, on their big day. Papidibilla (headwear), Mukkupodaka (nose ring), Buttalu (jhumkas), Kantaabhushanam (choker necklace), Aravanki/ Vanki (an arm band), Gundla Haram (layered chain), Pathakala Haram (another long chain), gold bangles and stone-studded bangles like Kanganalu and Kadiyalu. However, the Sutralagolusu (the Mangalsutra equivalent) is the main neckwear for the bride. 

Unlike Reddy brides, the Arya Vysya brides wear heavy pure gold jewellery. Simple in design, the community’s bridal collection includes Papidibilla, Buttalu and Aravanki. The Kandabaranam (a gold and gemstone studded choker necklace) and the Nakshi Haram (a heavy gold chain adorned with mostly uncut diamonds). Bangles are almost similar to that of the Reddy brides.

Coming to the Nizam brides, their main ornaments include the Maangtika and Jhoomer (both hair ornaments) and the large round nose ring or Nath, which is usually studded with pearls. Kundan choker necklace, Victorian finger rings and the Almas Manek rings (rings in the shape of flowers) are other highlight of their bridal ensemble. The most unique jewellery pieces are the Saatlada (a seven-tier chain made of gold and pearls) and the Kundanmanekchura (heavy bangles). Other hand ornaments are the Almaskada, the Kundankangan and the Meenakangan.

However, the present-day Andhra bride picks the best from traditional and modern bridal jewellery trends and creates her own exclusive bridal statement. But nothing like the jewellery heritage of this region.  

Author: Deepa Mishra

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