The rich and varied Tulunadu treasures

First let’s make it clear. Not everyone living in South India is Mallu and particularly, not everyone living in Karnataka speaks Kannada. There is a culturally rich clan of Tulunadus living in Mangalore who are distinction in every way. Their rituals, their language and their lifestyle reflect the uniqueness of their culture. But still, its jewellery heritage is something that connects it to the whole of India.  

Just like other cultures of India, Tulu women too are bejewelled from head to toe. From armlets, bracelets, bangles, necklaces and earrings to finger rings, toe rings, nose rings, anklets, pendants and waistbands, their trinket box is replete with jewels. Just that they call it by different names. For instance, for them diamond is Vajjira, while coral is Pakala. Similarly, pearl is Muttu, ghungroo is referred as Gejje and hand-made gold coin goes by the name Nanya.

Knowing the names of the jewellery elements, you would be able to guess the type of ornaments since most of the Bunt ornaments are named accordingly. Let’s take a sneak peek into their trinket box and know what they call what. After all, native names exude the essence of the place.

To begin with, rings. Vadungeela is a V-shape eternity ring. It is the wedding ring for a Bunt woman. Then, Ungila is a finger ring that the groom slips into the bride's finger. That’s not all. There is also a five-ring connected gold jewellery for all the fingers called Panchaungila.

Moving on to earrings (Kebita). Here you would be spoilt for choice. Bendole are studs worn by women, while men love to flaunt Vonti. As Lolak and Ole make it for danglers, Koppu sits pretty on the cartilage and Bugudi on the top of the ear. Jhumkis? It needs no mention. In any culture of India, it is not just popular but also rules the roost. For more a lavish look, a chain is added to the earring that is attached to the hairdo behind and to that, they call Thang. Traditional pearl earrings, Gili Ole comes with a parrot head, three small bell-shaped jumkas from the centre piece and has a few rubies/ corals too thrown in.   

There is no dearth of variety in nose ornaments too. A small stud let into the flesh of the nostril on one side, Moonkutti generally comes studded with diamonds. While Moonkuda bottu is a small gold tinsel nose trinket, dangling Nath is usually made of gold, pearls and stones. They also have something for the septum. Here they wear a bull ring usually pushed (rarely pierced) called Bulak.

Adorning the neckline bears a special significance and from the short chain Sara to the long chain till the chest or waist Mala, this culture is a treasure trove of designs. Kanti Sara is one of the popularly worn necklaces here. Even Padaka pendant is hot favourite amongst the Bunt women. While Thali - a pipal leaf-shaped pendant that the groom ties around the bride’s neck during the wedding, is the Mangalsutra equivalent, a chain of black beads called KariyamaniDa Sara depicts the marital status of woman here. You thought, that is it, what Bunts have to offer in necklace! To be precise, we have only started now.

Here is the extensive variety of necklaces from this culture.

§  Mallimuggu Sara is a jasmine bud necklace inspired by the beauty and fragrance of jasmine buds.

§  Kukkumudi Sara is a Mango Mala with small golden mangoes in its design, sometimes extending down to the waist.    

§  Pavan Sara is a neckwear made by stringing in a series of gold coins into an intricately-patterned gold chain.

§  Misiri Mala is a series of light-weight small gold coins on which the image of Goddess Laxmi is engraved and is strung into a gold thread.

§  Navarathna Sara is a necklace with nine precious gems - a ruby, a diamond, a natural pearl, a red coral, a hessonite, a blue sapphire, a cat's eye, a yellow sapphire and an emerald  

§  Kajipukai Sara is a chain with small gold vegetables and fruits. Usually, lac is filled inside each element.

§  Gejjetic Kantasara/ Gejje AddigeSara is a thick herringbone band of necklace on which round bells are fixed at the bottom.

§  Gundu Sara is the chain made from small hollow gold beads that are strung on a gold chain.

§  Godhi Sara is a wheat chain crafted with small and dainty whole wheat charms.

§  Mohun Mala is a long necklace made of large gold beads, with an interval of gold twisted thread between each bead.

§  Ashtalaxmi Mala is a long chain with eight pendants depicting the Goddess Laxmi in different forms.

Bangles (Bale) too are dear to Bunt women. The thick gold bangle Kadaga, the bamboo design Beduru Bale and Teru Bale that has the repeated design of a canopy of a chariot, are some of the popularly worn wrist ornaments. Armlet, locally known as Vanki and Urku, a Talisman worn by toddlers and young children to avert evil and bring good fortune, adorn the upper arm.

As in every Indian culture, the bridal set here too include special jewels. Kirita is a crown and Mundole is a Mangtikka whereas tassels tied to plait ends are called Tareta Gonde. They also wear a forehead ornament known as Bottu. Then, there is Tareta Poo, a hair ornament wherein hair pin is attached to the top of the braid or in buns to hold them in place.

Dart your eyes lower to the waist. This part of the body too is elegantly adorned. A pendant of sitting Goddess Laxmi in the centre of the Kamarbandh is the most popular design and is called Bangarada Patti. Sonta Da Noolu is a simple chain tied around the waist for a minimal look. Tharkol da Gonchil too is worn at the waist but is different from a waist chain. It is an ornately designed key holder that comes with a hook to be fastened to saree.

 
At the ankles, Padasara made by joining rings of metal, usually silver, does the trick. Stiff anklets, usually in silver which are made like bangles with a gap to fit into the ankle, is referred to as Kada. A pair of toe rings, Kaar Ungila is a symbol of a married woman and usually made of silver. Manila Da Gubbi, carved in gold and silver, is a popular cufflink style jewel amongst the grooms here.

Author: Deepa Mishra

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