All that you need to know about Maharashtrian jewellery

Maharashtrian jewellery culture dates back to many centuries ago, several cultures have influenced it and with that, there is an extensive variety in designs and techniques too. From head to toe, there is something unique to boast about. Necklace, earrings, bangles, rings, anklets...you name it and it's there and in varieties. It's truly an exhaustive heritage to take pride in.   

But amongst all, Kolhapur Saaj continues to rule the roost. Worn by married women folks, it is made with jav mani (golden beads) and 21 leaf-shaped pendants. Each pendant has a meaning to it. While 10 pendants are believed to symbolise the ten avatars or Lord Vishnu, two pendants have ruby and emerald stones embedded in them, eight pendants are for ashtamangal (ashta means eight and mangal means good happenings) and the last pendant is a taviz.

Just like Saaj, even Mangalsutra with watimani and black-beaded string is an essential jewellery for married Marathi women since time immemorial. It deserves a special mention as it has not just been widely accepted by other cultures but also is one of the most selling ornaments at any jewellery store in today's time. No wonder, this symbolic jewel is available in many modern variants to suit the taste and style of new-age women from different walks of life.

Moving on to bridal necklace. Almost since 17th century, Putli Haar has been an integral part of Maharashtrian bridal jewellery. Threaded together with a silk cord, each coin has Goddess Lakshmi engraved on it, symbolising the goddess of wealth. 

Thushi necklace is another design marvel from this culture. It has its root in the Peshwa period and to craft this jewellery, many tiny beads are closely strung together with an adjustable cord (gonda). Apart from necklace, rings and earrings too designed usinf this technique. Among other jewels, Rani Haar, Tikada set, Mohan Mala and Vajratik are choices in necklace. 

Maharashtrian are also fond of pearls. Chinchpeti (choker) and Tanmani (short necklace) are testimony to the fact. Their love for pearls is further manifested through a variety of Naths that the culture boasts of. Whether Brahmani, Karwari naths or royal ones, pearls are extensively used to design them. 

When it comes to bangles, you are spoilt for choice. From Patli, Pichodi and Tode to Goth and Coin bangles, there is a wide variety to choose from. Plus, Kangans, leaf-patterns and Kundan bangles are other designs you can't resist. Although green glass bangles are a must during wedding, a touch of gold elevates the look of the set. 

Maharastra is also on top of its game with earrings. Kudya is a set of pearl earrings that is usually worn as wedding earrings. It has a centre pearl which is surrounded by six other pearls forming a neat floral pattern. All the pealrs are all held together by an underlying golden frame with varying degrees of visibility from the outside. For an even more lavish look, Kaan - the traditional ear cuffs studded with pearls or may be fully golden, that can be attached to a lavish Jhumka pair, works its magic.   

Maharashtrian jewellery also has variety in silver. A pair of toe rings, Jodvi is gifted by the bride’s mother-in-law and is worn on each of the second toe. Hupri, a region 20 kilometres away from Kolhapur, is well known for its out and out hand-crafted Pajebs. 

The Mundavalya worn on the wedding day, the Bajuband (the amulet) that adorns the upper arm, Ambada Pin that bejewels the hair bun and the Kamarbandh that infuses the bridal feel into the whole ensemble are some of the other magnificient jewels that has its root in Maharashtra.  

Author: Deepa Mishra

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